将失落的广东地方民俗文化重新带入大众视野

茧布

原文

茧布

程乡茧绸,为岭南所贵。其蚕分畦而养,各以其叶饲之,饲某叶则为某茧绸,其茧布则罗浮大胡蜨茧所成。有咏者云:仙遗衣化罗浮蜨,蜨化山蚕复作衣。大胡蜨者,葛稚川之遗衣也,衣化为蜨,蜨化复为衣,其异若此。文昌茧,其蚕惟食山栗叶,故吐丝坚韧,其绸可久服弗敝。新兴茧亦然。若南海官窑茧、顺德龙江茧,则劣矣。

白话

中文

程乡(今梅县)出产的茧绸,在岭南地区非常名贵。那里的蚕是分批分开饲养的,各自用特定的叶子喂食,喂某种叶子就能产出某种特定的茧绸。而(另一种)茧布,则是由罗浮山大蝴蝶的茧制成的。有诗人吟咏说:“仙人遗弃的衣服化作了罗浮山的蝴蝶,蝴蝶又化作山蚕再次织成了衣裳。”所谓的大蝴蝶,传说是葛稚川(葛洪)遗留下来的衣服所变,衣服变成了蝴蝶,蝴蝶(的茧)又变回了可以做衣服的布料,真是奇特啊。文昌(今海南文昌)的蚕茧,那里的蚕只吃山栗树的叶子,所以吐出的丝坚韧结实,用这种丝织成的绸缎可以穿很久而不易破损。新兴县(今广东新兴)的蚕茧也是如此。至于南海官窑和顺德龙江出产的蚕茧,品质就差一些了。

英文

Silk produced in Chengxiang (present-day Meixian) is highly valued in the Lingnan region. The silkworms there are raised in separate batches and fed specific types of leaves; feeding a certain leaf results in a particular type of silk. However, the cocoon cloth (Jiǎnbù) is made from the cocoons of the large butterflies (Dà Hú Dié) of Luofu Mountain. A poet once wrote: "An immortal's discarded clothes transformed into Luofu butterflies; the butterflies became mountain silkworms and again made clothes." These large butterflies are said to be the transformed remnants of clothes left behind by Ge Zhichuan (Ge Hong). The clothes turned into butterflies, and the butterflies (via their cocoons) turned back into cloth for garments – how extraordinary! For cocoons from Wenchang (present-day Wenchang, Hainan), the silkworms exclusively feed on mountain chestnut leaves, resulting in strong and tough silk. The fabric woven from this silk is durable and resistant to wear. Cocoons from Xinxing County (present-day Xinxing, Guangdong) are similar in quality. As for the cocoons produced in Guanyao (Nanhai) and Longjiang (Shunde), their quality is considered inferior.

文化解读/分析

此条目不仅记录了清初广东不同地区的蚕丝生产状况和品质评价(如程乡、文昌、新兴等地蚕丝的优良,以及南海、顺德产品的相对逊色),还特别指出了特定饲养方式(如文昌蚕食山栗叶)对丝绸品质的影响,反映了当时精细化的养蚕技术和地域品牌意识。
更具民俗和文化价值的是关于罗浮山“茧布”的记述。它并非来自家蚕,而是源于“大胡蜨”(大蝴蝶)的茧。屈大均引用了“仙遗衣化罗浮蜨,蜨化山蚕复作衣”的诗句,并将这种蝴蝶与著名道教人物葛洪(字稚川)联系起来,认为蝴蝶是葛洪遗弃在罗浮山的衣服所化,其茧又能织成布匹,形成“衣化蝶,蝶复为衣”的奇妙循环。这不仅为罗浮山的物产增添了神秘色彩和文化底蕴,也体现了道教神仙信仰与地方物产、民间传说的深度融合。此记载反映了古人对自然现象的浪漫想象,以及将地方风物与历史名人、神话传说相结合的文化心态,极大地丰富了岭南地区的物质文化与非物质文化内涵。同时,区分“茧绸”与“茧布”也展示了当时纺织原料来源的多样性。

关键词

茧布, 茧绸, 程乡, 岭南, 罗浮山, 大胡蜨, 葛稚川, 葛洪, 仙遗衣, 文昌, 山栗叶, 新兴, 南海官窑, 顺德龙江, 丝绸, 养蚕, 民俗传说, 道教, 广东新语, 货语

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