原文

鸟服

朔漠多兽服，南方多鸟衣。鸟衣者，诸种鸟布所成，一曰天鹅绒，夷人剪天鹅细管，杂以机丝为之，其制巧丽，以色大红者为上。有冬夏二种，雨洒不泾，谓之雨纱、雨缎。粤人得其法，以土鹅管或以绒物，品既下，价亦因之。一曰琐袱，出哈烈国，亦鸟毳所成，纹如纨绮，其大红者贵。然服之身重不便，粤人仿为之，似素纺绢而自起云，殊不逮也。又有以孔雀毛绩为线缕，以绣谱子及云肩袖口，金翠夺目，亦可爱。其毛多买于番舶，毛曰珠毛，盖孔雀之尾也。每一屏尾价一金，一屏者一孔雀之尾也。以其尾开如锦屏，故曰屏。

白话

中文

北方沙漠地带多穿着兽皮制作的服装，南方地区则多见用鸟羽制成的衣物。所谓的鸟衣，是由各种鸟羽织物制成的。其中一种叫做天鹅绒，是外国人（或指中亚等地非汉族人）剪取天鹅的细绒毛，掺杂丝线织造而成，制作精巧华丽，以大红色的最为上等。有冬季和夏季两种款式，雨水淋上也不会渗透，被称为“雨纱”或“雨缎”。广东人学得了这种方法，用本地鹅的绒毛或者其他绒状物仿制，但品质较低，价格也因此便宜。另一种叫做琐袱，出产自哈烈国（可能指中亚的赫拉特一带），也是用鸟的细绒毛制成，有像细绢或绮罗一样的纹理，其中大红色的很名贵。然而这种衣服穿在身上沉重不便，广东人也有仿制的，（仿制品）像是带有凸起云纹的素色纺绢，但远不及（原产的）好。此外还有用孔雀毛捻成线，用来绣制官服上的补子以及云肩、袖口等，金碧辉煌，色彩夺目，也非常惹人喜爱。这种孔雀毛大多是从外国商船上购买的，称为“珠毛”，其实就是孔雀的尾羽。每一整副尾羽（一屏尾）价值一金，“一屏”就是指一只孔雀的完整尾羽。因为孔雀尾巴展开时像一扇华丽的屏风，所以称之为“屏”。

英文

In the northern desert regions, clothing made from animal hides ("beast clothes") is common, whereas in the south, garments made from bird feathers ("bird clothes") are more prevalent. "Bird clothes" refers to various textiles made from avian materials. One type is called swan velvet (Tiān'é Róng). Foreigners (possibly referring to non-Han peoples from Central Asia or elsewhere) cut fine swan down and mix it with silk threads to weave it. Its craftsmanship is exquisite and beautiful, with the bright red variety considered the finest. It comes in winter and summer versions and repels rain, earning it the names "rain gauze" (Yǔ Shā) or "rain satin" (Yǔ Duàn). People in Guangdong learned this technique but used domestic goose down or other fluffy materials to imitate it, resulting in lower quality and consequently lower prices. Another type is called Suofu (Suǒ Fú), originating from the Halaha country (possibly Herat in Central Asia). It is also made from fine bird down and has patterns resembling fine silk gauze or damask; the bright red version is highly valued. However, wearing it is cumbersome due to its weight. Guangdong artisans created imitations that look like plain spun silk with raised cloud patterns, but they are far inferior. Additionally, peacock feathers are spun into threads used to embroider rank badges (Pǔzi) on official robes, as well as cloud collars (Yúnjiān) and cuffs (Xiùkǒu). The resulting embroidery, with its dazzling gold and jade-green hues, is quite lovely. These peacock feathers are mostly purchased from foreign ships and are called "pearl feathers" (Zhū Máo), referring to the peacock's tail feathers. A complete set of tail feathers ("one screen tail" - Yī Píng Wěi) costs one unit of gold. "One screen" denotes the full tail of a single peacock, so named because the tail opens up like a magnificent screen (Píng).

文化解读/分析

本条目揭示了清初广东乃至中国南方地区独特的服饰材料来源——鸟羽。与北方常见的兽皮服饰形成对比，反映了不同地域环境下物产利用的差异。

1. 外来奢侈品与本土仿制：“天鹅绒”和“琐袱”明确指出是外来品（“夷人”、“哈烈国”），属于当时的奢侈纺织品，尤以红色为贵。这反映了广东作为对外贸易口岸，引进了域外的珍奇物品。同时，“粤人得其法”、“粤人仿为之”则说明了本土手工业者对这些流行奢侈品的模仿和再创造，虽然品质和价格有所降低，但也满足了更广泛的市场需求，体现了技术的传播与地方化。
2. 鸟羽利用的多样性：不仅有来自天鹅、鹅以及某种鸟毳（用于琐袱）的绒毛被用于制作整块面料（天鹅绒、琐袱），还有孔雀尾羽被“绩为线缕”，用于精美的刺绣装饰。这展示了古人对鸟羽不同部位、不同特性的精细利用。
3. 孔雀羽毛的文化价值：孔雀毛刺绣用于“谱子”（官阶标志）、“云肩”、“袖口”等服饰关键部位，显示其尊贵和审美价值。“金翠夺目”的描述强调了其华丽的视觉效果。孔雀毛需从“番舶”购买，且价格高昂（“一屏尾价一金”），进一步印证了其珍稀和贵重，是身份和财富的象征。将孔雀开屏比作“锦屏”，赋予其美好的文化意象。
4. 实用与审美的结合：“天鹅绒”具有“雨洒不泾”的实用功能，被称为“雨纱”、“雨缎”，而“琐袱”则因“身重不便”而实用性稍差。孔雀毛绣品则纯粹是审美和身份的体现。这反映了在选择和制作服饰时，兼顾实用功能与审美装饰的不同考量。
   此条目为了解清代广东地区的物质文化、对外贸易、手工业技术以及服饰风尚提供了宝贵信息，特别是鸟羽这种特殊材料在纺织和服饰中的应用，丰富了我们对中国传统服饰文化的认识。

关键词

鸟服, 鸟衣, 天鹅绒, 琐袱, 孔雀毛, 鸟布, 兽服, 羽毛, 纺织, 服饰, 刺绣, 雨纱, 雨缎, 哈烈国, 夷人, 广东, 番舶, 谱子, 云肩, 袖口, 珠毛, 屏尾, 奢侈品, 贸易, 仿制, 防水, 广东新语, 货语, 屈大均