将失落的广东地方民俗文化重新带入大众视野

澳门

原文

凡番船停泊,必以海滨之湾环者为澳。澳者,舶口也。香山故有澳,名曰浪白,广百余里,诸番互市其中,嘉靖间,诸番以浪白辽远,重贿当事求蠔镜为澳。蠔镜在虎跳门外,去香山东南百二十里,有南北二湾,海水环之,番人于二湾中聚众筑城,自是新宁之广海、望峒、奇潭,香山之浪白、十字门,东莞之虎头门、屯门、鸡栖诸澳悉废,而蠔镜独为舶薮。自香山城南以往二十里,一岭如莲茎,逾岭而南,至澳门则为莲叶。岭甚危峻,稍不戒,颠坠崖下。既逾岭,遥见海天无际,岛屿浮青,有白屋数十百间在烟雾中,斯则澳夷所居矣。六十里至关,关外有番百余家,一寨在前,山巅有参将府,握其吭,与澳对峙。澳南而寨北,设此以御澳奸,亦所以防外寇也。初至一所曰青洲,林木芊郁,桄榔、槟榔之中为楼榭,差有异致。又十里至澳,澳有南台、北台,台者,山也。以相对,故谓澳门。番人列置大铜铳以守。其居率为三层楼,依山高下,楼有方者、圆者、三角者,六角、八角者,肖诸花果形者,一一不同,争以巧丽相尚。己居楼上,而居唐人其下,不以为嫌。山顶有一台,磴道横贯,常登以望舶。其麓有东望洋寺、西望洋寺。中一寺曰三巴,高十余丈,若石楼,雕镂奢丽。奉耶苏为天主居之,僧号法王者司其教。凡番人有罪至寺,法王不许忏悔,即立诛斩。许忏悔,则自以铁钩钩四体,血流狼藉,以为可免地狱之患。男女日夕赴寺礼拜,听僧演说。寺有风乐,藏革櫃中不可见,内排牙管百余,外按以囊,嘘吸微风入之,有声呜呜自櫃出,音繁节促,若八音并宣,以合经呗,甚可听。有玻瓈千人镜悬之,物物在镜中。有多宝镜,远照一人作千百人,见寺中金仙,若真千百亿化身然者。有千里镜,见三十里外塔尖,铃索宛然,字画横斜,一一不爽。月中如一盂水,有黑纸渣浮出,其淡者如画中微云一抹,其底碎光四射,如纸隔华灯,纸穿而灯透漏然。有显微镜,见花须之蛆,背负其子,子有三四。见虮虱毛黑色,长至寸许,若可数。又有自呜钟、海洋全图、璇玑诸器。花则贝多罗、丁香,禽则红白鹦鹉、么凤、倒挂,兽则獴犭贵、短狗以为娱。人以黑毡为帽,相见脱之以为礼,锦〈瞒中"目改毛"〉裹身,无襟袖缝绽之制。腰带长刀,刀尾拖地数寸,划石作声。其发垂至肩,绀绿螺蜷,鬅如也。面甚白,惟鼻昂而目深碧,与唐人稍异。其侍立者,通体如漆精,须发蓬然,气甚腥,状正如鬼,特红唇白齿略似人耳。所衣皆红,多罗绒、辟支缎,是曰鬼奴。语皆侏亻离不可辨,每晨食必击铜钟,以玻璃器盛物,荐以白氎布,人各数器,洒蔷薇露、梅花片脑其上。坐者悉置右手褥下不用,曰:此为触手,惟以溷。食必以左手攫取。先击生鸡子数枚啜之,乃以金匕割炙,以白氎巾拭手,一拭辄弃置,更易新者。食已皆卧,及暮乃起,张灯作人事。所积著西洋货物,多以妇人贸易,美者宝鬘华襔,五色相错,然眼亦微碧。彼中最重女子,女子持家计,承父资业。男子则出嫁女子,谓之交印。男子不得有二色,犯者杀无赦。女入寺,或惟法王所欲,与法王生子,谓之天主子,绝贵重矣。得一唐人为婿,举澳相贺,婿欲归唐,则其妇阴以药黧黑其面,发卷而黄,遂为真番人矣。澳人多富,西洋国岁遣官更治之,诸舶输珍异而至,云帆踔风,万里倏忽,唐有司不得稽也。每舶载白金钜万,闽人为之揽头者分领之,散于百工。作为服食器用诸淫巧以易瑰货,岁得饶益。向者海禁甚严,人民不得通澳,而潘王左右阴与为市,利尽归之,小民无分毫滋润,今亦无是矣。

白话

中文

凡是外国商船停泊,必定选择海边环绕的海湾作为“澳”。“澳”就是停泊外来船舶的港口。香山县以前就有一个澳,名叫浪白澳,方圆一百多里,各国商人都在那里进行贸易。明朝嘉靖年间,各国商人因为浪白澳太偏远,便用重金贿赂当地官员,请求改用蠔镜(澳门半岛)作为泊船贸易的港口。蠔镜在虎跳门外,距离香山县城东南一百二十里,有南、北两个海湾,海水环抱着它。外国人在两个海湾之间聚集人众修筑城池。从此以后,新宁县的广海、望峒、奇潭,香山县的浪白、十字门,东莞县的虎头门、屯门、鸡栖等各个港口全都废弃了,只有蠔镜成为外国船舶汇集的地方。从香山县城往南走二十里,有一道山岭像莲花的茎,翻过山岭再往南走,到达澳门,地形就像一片莲叶。山岭非常险峻,稍微不小心,就会跌落悬崖。翻过山岭后,远远望见无边无际的大海和天空,岛屿在海面上呈现一片青葱,有数十上百间白色的房屋掩映在烟雾之中,那就是澳门外国人居住的地方了。再走六十里到达关闸,关闸外有一百多家外国人居住。前面有一座兵营寨子,山顶上设有参将府,扼守着咽喉要道,与澳门对峙。澳门在南,寨子在北,设置这个关卡是为了防御澳门不法之徒,也是为了防备外来的侵略者。最初到达的一个地方叫青洲,树木茂盛,在桄榔树、槟榔树丛中建有楼台亭榭,别有一番情致。再走十里到达澳门,澳门有南台、北台两座山,因为两山相对,所以称为澳门。外国人排列安放着大铜炮来防守。他们居住的房屋大多是三层楼房,依着山势高低建造。楼房有方形的、圆形的、三角形的、六角形的、八角形的,还有仿照各种花果形状建造的,各不相同,竞相追求精巧华丽。他们自己住在楼上,让中国人住在楼下,也不觉得有什么不妥。山顶上有一座炮台,有石阶小路横贯其上,外国人常常登上炮台瞭望来往的船只。山脚下有东望洋寺和西望洋寺。中间一座教堂叫三巴寺(大三巴),高十多丈,像一座石楼,雕刻装饰极其奢华。里面供奉耶稣,称之为天主,由号称“法王”(主教)的僧侣主持教务。凡是外国人有罪到教堂,如果“法王”不允许忏悔,就立刻斩杀。如果允许忏悔,犯人就自己用铁钩钩住四肢,弄得血肉模糊,认为这样就可以免除地狱的苦难。男女老少每天早晚都到教堂礼拜,听僧侣讲道。教堂里有风琴,藏在皮箱里看不见,里面排列着一百多根像牙齿般的管子,外面连接着风囊,吸入微风就能发出呜呜的声音,声音繁复,节奏急促,好像各种乐器同时演奏,用来配合诵经唱诗,很值得一听。教堂里悬挂着巨大的玻璃“千人镜”,所有东西都能映在镜中。有“多宝镜”,能将远处一个人的影像照成成百上千个,看到教堂里的金身神像,就好像真的有千百亿个化身一样。有“千里镜”(望远镜),能看见三十里外塔的尖顶,连铃铛绳索都清晰可见,塔上的字画横斜也看得清清楚楚,没有一点差错。用它看月亮,月亮就像一盂水,里面有黑色的像纸渣一样的东西浮现出来,颜色淡的如同画里一抹微云,月亮底部有碎裂的光芒四射,好像纸隔着华丽的灯,纸被戳穿了,灯光透射出来一样。有“显微镜”,能看见花蕊上的小虫背着它的孩子,孩子有三四个。能看见虮子虱子身上的黑毛,长达一寸左右,好像可以数得清。此外还有自鸣钟、海洋全图、天体运行模型等器具。花卉有贝多罗树、丁香花;禽鸟有红、白鹦鹉,么凤(一种小鸟)、倒挂鸟;野兽有獴、短腿狗等用来娱乐。澳门的外国人用黑毡做帽子,相见时脱帽为礼。用锦缎毛毯裹身,没有衣襟、袖子和缝合的样式。腰间佩戴长刀,刀鞘末端拖在地上几寸长,划在石头上发出声响。他们的头发垂到肩膀,颜色深绿,像海螺一样卷曲,蓬松着。脸色很白,只是鼻子高挺,眼睛深陷呈碧色,与中国人稍有不同。他们身边的侍从,全身像黑漆一样亮,胡须头发蓬乱,气味很腥,样子如同鬼怪,只有红嘴唇白牙齿稍微像人罢了。穿的衣服都是红色的多罗绒、辟支缎,这些人被称为“鬼奴”。说的话叽里咕噜听不懂。每天早晨吃饭前必定敲响铜钟,用玻璃器皿盛放食物,下面垫着白棉布。每人面前摆好几样器皿,上面洒上蔷薇露和梅花片脑(冰片)。坐下的人都把右手放在坐褥下面不用,说这是“触手”,只用来处理污秽之事。吃饭一定用左手抓取。先打几个生鸡蛋喝掉,然后用金制小刀切割烤肉,用白棉布巾擦手,擦一次就扔掉,再换新的。吃完饭都去睡觉,到傍晚才起床,点亮灯火处理事务。他们囤积的西洋货物,大多由妇女负责买卖。漂亮的女子戴着珍宝头饰和华丽花环,五彩缤纷,但眼睛也稍微呈碧色。在他们那里最重视女子,女子掌管家计,继承父亲的资产。男子则像女子一样“嫁”出去,称为“交印”。男子不准有两个妻子或情妇,违反的人处死绝不宽恕。女子进入教堂,有时会顺从“法王”的要求,与“法王”生下孩子,称为“天主子”,非常尊贵。如果他们家招到一个中国人做女婿,全澳门的人都会互相祝贺。如果女婿想回中国,他的妻子就会暗中用药把他的脸涂黑,头发弄卷变黄,于是就变成真正的外国人了。澳门人大多很富有,西洋国家(葡萄牙)每年派遣官员轮流治理。各艘商船满载珍奇货物来到这里,船帆乘风破浪,万里之遥转瞬即至,中国的官员无法稽查。每艘船都载有巨万两白银,由福建人做“揽头”分发下去,散给各行各业的工匠。工匠们制作各种精巧奢华的服装、食品器具等物品去交换他们的珍奇货物,每年都能获得丰厚的利润。以前海禁非常严厉,老百姓不能与澳门互通贸易,但是(平南)藩王(尚可喜)的部下却暗中和他们做买卖,利润全被他们攫取,普通百姓得不到丝毫好处,现在也没有这种情况了。

英文

Whenever foreign merchant ships anchor, they invariably choose a surrounding bay along the coast as an "Ao." An "Ao" is a port for foreign vessels. Xiangshan County previously had such an Ao, named Langbai Ao, spanning over a hundred li, where various foreign merchants traded. During the Jiajing era (1522-1566) of the Ming Dynasty, foreign merchants, finding Langbai Ao too remote, heavily bribed local officials to request Haojing (the Macau Peninsula) as their new Ao. Haojing lies beyond Humen (Tiger Gate), 120 li southeast of Xiangshan county seat. It features two bays, north and south, embraced by the sea. Foreigners gathered people to build a city between these two bays. Consequently, the ports of Guanghai, Wangdong, and Qitan in Xinning County; Langbai and Shizimen (Cross Gate) in Xiangshan County; and Hutoumen, Tunmen, and Jiqi in Dongguan County were all abandoned. Haojing alone became the hub for foreign ships ("Boshu"). Twenty li south from Xiangshan county seat, a ridge resembles a lotus stem. Crossing this ridge southward leads to Macau, shaped like a lotus leaf. The ridge is extremely steep and perilous; a slight misstep could cause a fall down the cliff. After crossing the ridge, one sees the boundless sea and sky in the distance, with islands floating greenly. Several tens to hundreds of white houses appear amidst the mist – this is where the "Aoyi" (Macau foreigners, i.e., Portuguese) reside. Another sixty li reaches the Barrier Gate (Porta do Cerco). Outside the gate live over a hundred foreign families. A fortress stands before them, and on the mountaintop is the Assistant Commander's office, strategically controlling the passage and facing Macau. Macau is to the south, the fortress to the north; this setup was established to guard against illicit activities from Macau and also to defend against external invaders. The first place reached is called Qingzhou (Ilha Verde), with lush trees. Pavilions are built amongst the fishtail palms and betel nut trees, possessing a unique charm. Ten more li leads to Macau proper. Macau has the South and North "Tai" (platforms, referring to hills). Because they face each other, it's called "Ao Men" (Bay Gate, Macau). The foreigners have arranged large bronze cannons for defense. Their dwellings are mostly three-story buildings, constructed according to the mountain's varying heights. The buildings come in square, round, triangular, hexagonal, and octagonal shapes, some even mimicking the forms of various flowers and fruits, each distinct, vying in craftsmanship and beauty. They themselves live on the upper floors, housing the "Tangren" (Chinese people) below, without finding it inappropriate. On the mountaintop, there is a fort (likely Monte Fort) with a stone-paved path traversing it; foreigners often ascend it to watch for ships. At the foot of the hill are the East Looking Ocean Temple (Capela de Nossa Senhora da Guia) and West Looking Ocean Temple (Penha Church). A central church is called Sanba Temple (St. Paul's), over ten zhang (approx. 33 meters) high, resembling a stone tower, exquisitely carved and lavish. They worship Jesus as Tianzhu (Lord of Heaven, God) within it, and monks titled "Fawang" (Dharma King, likely the Bishop) preside over their religion. When a foreigner commits a crime and goes to the church, if the "Fawang" does not permit confession, they are executed immediately. If confession is allowed, the penitent hooks their own four limbs with iron hooks, causing profuse bleeding, believing this can avert the torments of hell. Men and women attend church daily, morning and evening, for prayers and to listen to the monks preach. The church has a "wind instrument" (organ), hidden unseen within a leather chest. Inside are over a hundred ivory-like pipes, and outside, a bellows is pressed, drawing in a slight breeze to produce 'wu-wu' sounds from the chest. The music is complex and fast-paced, like all eight traditional Chinese musical categories playing simultaneously, accompanying the chanting of scriptures, quite pleasant to hear. A large glass "thousand-person mirror" hangs there, reflecting everything. There's a "multi-treasure mirror" (likely multifaceted) that reflects one distant person as hundreds or thousands, making the golden statues in the church appear like truly countless incarnations. There's a "thousand-li mirror" (telescope), through which one can see the spire of a pagoda thirty li away, with its bells and ropes clearly visible, and the tilted characters on it distinct without error. Looking at the moon through it, the moon appears like a bowl of water with floating black dregs resembling paper scraps; the lighter areas are like a faint stroke of cloud in a painting, while the base emits scattered rays of light, like light leaking through pierced paper covering a bright lantern. There's a "subtlety-revealing mirror" (microscope), through which one can see maggots on flower stamens carrying their young – three or four of them. One can see the black hairs on nits and lice, up to an inch long, seemingly countable. Additionally, there are self-sounding clocks, complete maps of the oceans, and armillary spheres. Flora includes Palmyra palms and cloves; fauna for amusement includes red and white parrots, "mao feng" (small phoenix, likely cockatoos or similar), hanging birds (lorikeets?), mongooses, and short-legged dogs. The people wear black felt hats, removing them as a greeting. They wrap their bodies in brocade blankets ("Jinman," likely capes or robes), lacking the structure of lapels, sleeves, or seams. They wear long swords at their waists, the tips dragging several inches on the ground, scraping against stones. Their hair hangs to the shoulders, dark green, curled like螺 (snails/conches), and bushy. Their faces are very white, but their noses are high and eyes deep-set and blue/green, slightly different from the Chinese. Their attendants are entirely black like polished lacquer, with bristly hair and beards, a very fishy odor, and look just like ghosts, except their red lips and white teeth bear a slight resemblance to humans. They all wear red clothing of "duoluo" velvet or "pizhi" satin; these are called "Gui Nu" (ghost slaves). Their speech is incomprehensible gibberish. Every morning before eating, they strike a bronze bell. Food is served in glassware placed on white cotton cloths. Each person has several dishes, sprinkled with rosewater and plum blossom borneol/camphor. Diners all place their right hand under their seat cushion and do not use it, saying it is the "touching hand," used only for unclean tasks. They must eat by grabbing food with the left hand. They first crack and sip several raw eggs, then use golden knives to cut roasted meat. They wipe their hands with white cotton napkins, discarding each one after a single wipe and taking a new one. After eating, they all sleep, rising only at dusk to light lamps and conduct their affairs. Their stockpiled Western goods are mostly traded by women. Beautiful women wear precious wreaths and splendid floral decorations of intertwined colors, though their eyes are also slightly blue/green. Among them, women are most valued. Women manage household finances and inherit paternal assets. Men, upon marriage, effectively "marry out," a practice called "Jiao Yin" (handing over the seal). Men are not allowed to have two partners (wives or mistresses); violators are executed without pardon. When women enter the church, they sometimes comply with the "Fawang's" desires. Children born from such unions with the "Fawang" are called "Children of the Lord of Heaven" and are extremely highly regarded. If a family manages to get a Chinese man as a son-in-law, the entire Macau community celebrates. If the son-in-law wishes to return to China ("Tang"), his wife will secretly use medicine to darken his face and make his hair curly and yellow, thus turning him into a genuine foreigner. The people of Macau are mostly wealthy. The Western country (Portugal) sends officials annually in rotation to govern. Numerous ships arrive carrying treasures and rarities, their sails catching the wind, covering vast distances swiftly, beyond the inspection of Chinese authorities. Each ship carries enormous amounts of silver, which Fujianese middlemen ("Lantou") receive and distribute among various artisans. These artisans create luxurious clothing, food items, utensils, and other ingenious crafts to exchange for valuable goods, reaping considerable profits each year. Previously, the maritime ban ("Haijin") was very strict, and common people could not interact with Macau. However, associates of the Pan Wang (Prince of Pingnan, Shang Kexi) secretly traded with them, monopolizing the profits, leaving no benefit for the common folk. This situation no longer exists now.

文化解读/分析

此条目是屈大均对清初澳门(时称蠔镜)极为细致生动的观察记录,具有重要的历史、文化和民俗学价值:

  1. 澳门的缘起与地理格局:清晰记述了澳门如何因地理优势和商业需求,取代浪白等旧港,成为西方(主要是葡萄牙)在华贸易的主要据点(“舶薮”)。描述了澳门半岛“莲叶”及其与大陆相连的“莲茎”(关闸岭)地形,以及早期澳门(含青洲)的聚落分布、防御工事(铳、寨、参将府)和地理名称由来(南北二台相对为“澳门”)。
  2. 西方物质文明的传入与展示:屈大均以好奇的眼光详尽描绘了葡萄牙人的生活方式。包括:

    • 建筑:依山而建、风格各异(方、圆、多角、仿生形)的三层楼房,特别是宏伟奢华的大三巴教堂。
    • 科技:大炮(铜铳)、风琴、大型玻璃镜(千人镜)、多面镜(多宝镜)、望远镜(千里镜)、显微镜、自鸣钟、地图(海洋全图)、天文仪器(璇玑)等,反映了当时西方在军事、光学、机械、地理测绘等领域的先进水平,令作者印象深刻。
    • 动植物:引入了异域的花卉(贝多罗、丁香)、禽鸟(鹦鹉、么凤、倒挂)和兽类(獴、短狗)作为观赏和娱乐。
  3. 葡萄牙人(番人/澳夷)的社会习俗与宗教

    • 外貌与服饰:白肤、高鼻、碧眼、卷发,毡帽、裹身毯式服装、腰佩长刀。
    • 宗教:以大三巴为中心的*信仰,供奉耶稣(天主),有被称为“法王”(主教)的僧侣掌管教务。记述了严格的教会纪律(不忏悔即死)、残酷的赎罪方式(铁钩钩体)、日常礼拜和听道。对“天主子”(神职人员与女性所生子女)的描述反映了作者的观察或当时的传闻。
    • 生活习惯:脱帽礼、晨起鸣钟、玻璃餐具、白布铺垫、洒香料(蔷薇露、片脑)、独特的饮食习惯(右手不用、左手取食、食生鸡蛋、用刀割肉、餐巾一次一换)、昼寝夜作。
    • 社会结构:存在阶层(葡人居上,华人居下);对“鬼奴”(非洲或南亚裔奴隶)带有歧视性的外貌和气味描述;重视女性(女性持家、继承财产、男子“交印”出嫁);严格的*(犯者处死);对招华人为婿的重视及防止其离开的手段(用药改变外貌)。
  4. 中西经济文化交流的窗口

    • 贸易中心:澳门作为“舶薮”,是西洋货物集散地,吸引大量白银流入。
    • 中介与加工:福建“揽头”在贸易中扮演重要角色,本地“百工”则通过制造精巧物品(“淫巧”)与葡商交换,形成独特的加工贸易模式。
    • 政策变迁:提及从严厉海禁到平南王时期(尚可喜藩下)的走私贸易,再到屈大均写作时(清初平藩后)情况的变化,反映了*对澳门贸易政策的演变。
  5. 作者的立场与视角:屈大均作为汉族文人和明遗民,其记述虽力求客观详尽,但也带有时代和身份的烙印。使用“番人”、“澳夷”、“鬼奴”等称谓,对某些习俗(如赎罪方式、鬼奴外貌)的描述流露出文化差异带来的隔阂甚至负面观感。他对澳门的繁荣、西方的奇技淫巧以及中西交往的复杂性(经济利益、文化冲突、社会问题)有深刻的认识。提及藩王时期的贸易垄断,也隐含着对地方*和民生疾苦的关注。

关键词

澳门、蠔镜、香山、浪白、葡萄牙人、番人、澳夷、唐人、关闸、青洲、南湾、北湾、南台、北台、大三巴、望洋山、教堂、耶稣、天主、法王(主教)、风琴、望远镜(千里镜)、显微镜、自鸣钟、地图、西洋、鬼奴、贸易、互市、舶口、舶薮、海禁、揽头、白银、建筑、习俗、宗教、科技、交印、尚可喜(潘王)

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