将失落的广东地方民俗文化重新带入大众视野

四市

原文

东粤有四市:一曰药市,在罗浮冲虚观左,亦曰洞天药市。有捣药禽,其声玎珰如铁杵臼相击。一名红翠,山中人视其飞集之所,知有灵药,罗浮故多灵药,而以红翠为导,故亦称药师。一曰香市,在东莞之寥步,凡莞香生熟诸品皆聚焉。一曰花市,在广州七门,所卖止素馨,无别花,亦犹雒阳但称牡丹曰花也。一曰珠市。在廉州城西卖鱼桥畔,盛平时,蚌壳堆积,有如玉阜。土人多以珠肉饷客,杂姜齑食之,味甚甘美,其细珠若粱粟者,亦多实于腹中矣。语曰:“生长海隅,食珠衣珠。”粤东所在,颇多难得之货。士大夫逾大庾而南,罕有不贪婪丧其所守。濠畔之肆,佛山、澳门之肆,其为灵台之蝥贼者不可数计。噫!

白话

中文

广东东部有四大专业市场:一是药市,位于罗浮山冲虚观的左边,也叫作“洞天药市”。传说那里有一种“捣药禽”,叫声玎珰作响,如同铁杵在臼中捣物。这种鸟又名“红翠”,山里人观察它飞落聚集的地方,就能知道那里有灵验的药材。罗浮山本来就盛产各种灵药,而人们又认为红翠鸟能引导找到药材,所以也称它为“药师”。二是香市,在东莞县的寥步镇,所有莞香的生香、熟香等各种品类都在这里集中交易。三是花市,在广州府城的七座城门附近,主要只卖素馨花,没有别的花种,这就像洛阳人只称牡丹为“花”一样。四是珠市,在廉州府城西边的卖鱼桥旁边。太平盛世的时候,采珠剩下的蚌壳堆积如山,像一座玉石小山。当地人常常用珍珠贝的肉来招待客人,拌上姜末和腌菜一起吃,味道非常甘甜鲜美,那些像米粒一样细小的珍珠,也常常被包含在肉里吃下去了。有句俗话说:“生长在海边,吃的是珍珠,穿的也是珍珠。”广东这个地方,有很多难得的货物。士大夫们一旦越过大庾岭来到南方,很少有不因为贪婪而丧失自己操守的。像濠畔街的店铺,佛山镇、澳门的店铺,这些诱惑人心的东西(如同精神世界的蛀虫)真是数不胜数。唉!

英文

In eastern Guangdong (Dongyue), there are four major specialized markets: The first is the Medicine Market, located to the left of the Chongxu Temple on Luofu Mountain, also known as the "Grotto-Heaven Medicine Market." Legend tells of a "Medicine-Pounding Bird" (Daoyaoqin) there, whose call sounds like the clanging of an iron pestle striking a mortar. This bird is also called "Hongcui." Mountain dwellers observe where it flies and gathers to know where efficacious medicinal herbs can be found. Luofu Mountain is inherently rich in various potent herbs, and since the Hongcui bird is believed to guide people to them, it is also called the "Medicine Master" (Yaoshi). The second is the Incense Market, located in Liaobu town, Dongguan County, where all varieties of Guan incense (Wanxiang), both raw and processed, are gathered for trade. The third is the Flower Market, situated near the seven city gates of Guangzhou Prefecture. It primarily sells only Jasmine (Suxin), with no other types of flowers, much like how in Luoyang, only the peony was referred to simply as "the flower." The fourth is the Pearl Market, beside the Maiyu Bridge (Fish-Selling Bridge) west of Lianzhou Prefecture city. During times of peace and prosperity, discarded oyster shells piled up like jade mounds. Locals often treated guests to pearl oyster meat, served mixed with minced ginger and pickles; the taste was very sweet and delicious, and tiny pearls, like grains of millet, were often ingested along with the meat. There is a saying: "Born by the sea, eat pearls and wear pearls." In Guangdong, there are many rare and valuable goods. Scholar-officials crossing the Dayu Mountains southward rarely avoid becoming greedy and losing their integrity. The shops along Haopan Street, in Foshan town, and in Macau—these temptations that corrupt the spirit (like pests of the soul)—are truly innumerable. Alas!

文化解读/分析

此条目记述了清初广东四个极具地方特色的专业市场,反映了当时广东物产的丰富性、商业的专业化以及独特的地域文化。

  1. 专业市场与地域特产:药市(罗浮山)、香市(东莞寥步)、花市(广州)、珠市(廉州)分别对应了广东四大特产:罗浮山的药材、东莞的莞香、广州的素馨花和廉州的南珠。这体现了广东各地依托自身资源优势形成的专业化商品经济格局。
  2. 民俗传说与自然崇拜:药市的记述融入了“捣药禽”(红翠)的传说,认为这种鸟能引导人们发现灵药,甚至被尊称为“药师”。这反映了古人对自然现象的观察、想象以及对珍稀资源的神秘化认知,带有一定的自然崇拜色彩,为药材采集活动增添了民俗趣味。
  3. 花卉文化与地方认同:广州花市专卖素馨花,并将其与洛阳牡丹相提并论,凸显了素馨花在当时广州文化中的特殊地位,是广府地区花卉文化和审美情趣的重要体现。这种专一性也反映了地方标志性物产的文化认同感。
  4. 饮食习俗与生活风貌:珠市的描述不仅展现了廉州珍珠产业的兴盛(蚌壳堆积如玉阜),还记录了当地“食珠肉”的独特饮食习俗,以及“生长海隅,食珠衣珠”的俗语。这生动地反映了沿海居民靠海吃海、以珠为富的生活方式和观念。食用带有细珠的珠肉,既是地方风味,也暗含了对富庶生活的体验。
  5. 商业繁荣与道德反思:屈大均在列举四大市场后,笔锋一转,感慨广东珍稀货物对人心的诱惑,指出许多官员南下后变得贪婪。他提到濠畔、佛山、澳门等商业繁盛之地,视之为腐蚀官员操守的“灵台之蝥贼”。这既从侧面印证了广东作为商业中心和对外窗口的繁华,也表达了作者作为传统士大夫对过度商业化和物质诱惑可能导致道德沦丧的忧虑与批判。

关键词

广东新语, 屈大均, 地语, 四市, 专业市场, 药市, 罗浮山, 冲虚观, 捣药禽, 红翠, 药材, 香市, 东莞, 寥步, 莞香, 花市, 广州, 七门, 素馨花, 珠市, 廉州, 卖鱼桥, 珍珠, 南珠, 珠肉, 饮食习俗, 商业, 贪婪, 濠畔, 佛山, 澳门, 清初, 广东, 岭南

上一篇
下一篇

评论区(暂无评论)

我要评论

昵称
邮箱
网址
0/200
没有评论
目录导航

更多文档