原文
永安县
自归善水东,溯东江而行,凡三日,至苦竹泒。取轿历桥田、月角岭至义容屯,涉溪四五,夕宿宽清溪砦。次日历员墩、白溪,上岭者六七,涉溪十有二三,岭路逼仄,皆蛇盘。沿溪以行,或在溪左,或溪右,穿竹披茅,雾露沾湿,至午岚气不开,郁燠蒸人,甚苦之。一路山谷间皆茅屋,或一二家,或十余、二十余家。高者曰砦,平者曰围,或曰楼。或在山绝巅,或在隘口,一径微通,一夫可守,皆绝险。自白溪以东,道旁多古松,樵火所燔,膏液迸注,往往凝结成芝菌,大者如盘,色莹白。松或被斫伐横卧,鳞甲四散,磴道多为所碍。至林田,渐有大村,高下棋列,稻田随山势开垦,徂夷相半,多狭长细垅,无有方广至数十亩者。十里间两涉秋乡江,至铁潭渡抵县。县所处稍卑,丹嶂宫之。嶂者何?盖于诸山杰出,最高大,如屏障横空,故曰嶂。其最著者,如羊角、燕尾、鸡冠,以形名。白叶、帘紫、乌禽,以五色名,鸡公、鹿母、黄獐、鹿牜麻,以鸟兽名。柏树、柏兴、漆木、黄草、黄花,以草木名。余如天字、宝峒、描眉、上濑、宝山、企壁、吹螺、茅滩等,凡分三纪,其名一一皆美,状亦奇秀。而鸡冠嶂当予所居紫金书院前,大小为峰者八九,色丹紫多变,烟翠欲流,尤可爱。羊角嶂南当学宫,其旁一峰,与县庭相直,名文笔。锐而不高,县中士夫倘能人以一罂一瓮实土覆其上,立可培高数丈,势益峭拔矣。县境多水,水从诸嶂而出,大小皆数百折。大者为江,江有五,以为之经。小者为溪,为坑涧,凡百余道,为之纬。四面争流,或分或合,而秋乡江最长,自火带迳以下二百余里,皆号秋乡江,纳小水三十有八,自南而北而西,又而南而西以入东江。使从城南铁潭口至牙溪以下,稍疏浚之,排其阏沙,燔其礧石,使滩泷三百六十,一无所阻,三篷、四篷船子可通行,则谷贾四方辐辏而谷贵,谷贵则种畲者多,益尽地力,田虽稀少而畲多,无农不畲,则无山不为村落,县之富庶,可计日而俟也。
白话
中文
永安县(今广东紫金县)。
从归善县(今惠州惠阳一带)东边的河流出发,沿着东江逆流而上,大约走三天,到达苦竹泒。换乘轿子经过桥田、月角岭到达义容屯,期间渡过四五条溪流,晚上在宽清溪砦住宿。第二天经过员墩、白溪,翻越了六七座山岭,渡过了十二三条溪流,山路狭窄难行,都是像蛇一样蜿蜒曲折的。沿着溪流前进,时而在溪的左岸,时而在溪的右岸,穿行在竹林和茅草丛中,被雾气和露水沾湿衣裳,直到中午山中雾气还未散去,又闷又热,让人感到非常辛苦。一路上山谷间的房屋都是茅草屋,有的地方只有一两家,有的有十几家或二十几家。建在高处的村寨叫做“砦”,建在平地的叫做“围”,也有的叫做“楼”。这些村寨有的建在山顶绝壁上,有的建在险要的隘口,只有一条小路可以勉强通行,一个人就能守住关口,都是极其险要的地方。从白溪往东,路旁有很多古老的松树,被砍柴的人用火烧过,松脂流淌出来,常常凝结成像灵芝菌菇一样的东西,大的像盘子,颜色晶莹洁白。有的松树被砍伐后横躺在地上,树皮散落四周,常常阻碍了石阶小路。到达林田一带,才逐渐看到较大的村庄,房屋高低错落,像棋盘上的棋子。稻田随着山势开垦出来,一半是开垦过的熟地,一半是荒地,大多是狭长细小的田垄,没有方圆达到几十亩的大块田地。在十里路程中两次渡过秋乡江,到达铁潭渡口就抵达县城了。县城所处地势稍低,四周被红色的“嶂”围绕着。“嶂”是什么呢?就是指在群山中特别突出、最高大的山峰,像屏障一样横亘空中,所以叫做“嶂”。其中最有名的山峰,像羊角嶂、燕尾嶂、鸡冠嶂,是以形状命名的;白叶嶂、帘紫嶂、乌禽嶂,是以颜色命名的;鸡公嶂、鹿母嶂、黄獐嶂、鹿牜麻嶂(意指母鹿),是以鸟兽命名的;柏树嶂、柏兴嶂、漆木嶂、黄草嶂、黄花嶂,是以草木命名的。其余像天字嶂、宝峒嶂、描眉嶂、上濑嶂、宝山嶂、企壁嶂、吹螺嶂、茅滩嶂等,大约可分三大类,名称个个都很好听,形态也奇特秀美。而鸡冠嶂正对着我所居住的紫金书院,有八九个大小山峰组成,颜色呈丹红、紫色且富于变化,云雾缭绕,绿意盎然,尤其惹人喜爱。羊角嶂在南面正对着县学宫,旁边有一座山峰,与县衙门正对,叫做文笔峰。山峰尖锐但不算高,如果县里的读书人能每人搬一坛一罐的土覆盖在上面,立刻就可以把它加高几丈,山势就会更加峭拔了。县境内河流众多,水都从各个山嶂中流出,大小河流都曲折数百次。大的河流称为江,有五条,如同(织布的)经线。小的称为溪、坑、涧,总共有一百多条,如同(织布的)纬线。水流从四面八方奔涌,时而分开时而汇合,其中秋乡江最长,从火带迳往下二百多里都叫秋乡江,汇集了三十八条小支流,从南向北流,再向西流,又转向南再向西汇入东江。如果能从城南的铁潭口到牙溪以下的河段稍加疏浚,清除淤积的泥沙,炸掉阻塞的礁石,使得三百六十处险滩急流都能畅通无阻,让三篷、四篷的小船可以通行,那么各地的粮商就会聚集到这里,粮食价格就会上涨,粮价高了,种植“畲”田(山地旱田)的人就会增多,就能更充分地利用土地资源。虽然(水)田稀少但“畲”田众多,农民没有不种“畲”田的,那么就没有一座山不会形成村落,这样,永安县的富庶就指日可待了。
英文
Yong'an County (Modern Ziyin County, Guangdong).
Starting from the river east of Guishan County (modern Huiyang area, Huizhou), traveling upstream along the Dongjiang River for about three days, one reaches Kuzhu Pai. Switching to a sedan chair, passing through Qiaotian and Yuejiao Ridge to Yirong Tun, crossing four or five streams along the way, we spent the night at Kuanqingxi Zhai (fortified village). The next day, passing through Yuandun and Baixi, we climbed six or seven mountain ridges and crossed twelve or thirteen streams. The mountain paths were narrow and difficult, all winding like snakes. Following the streams, sometimes on the left bank, sometimes on the right, we passed through bamboo groves and thatch grass, getting damp from mist and dew. Even by noon, the mountain mist hadn't dispersed, and the air was muggy and steamy, making the journey very arduous. Along the way, the houses in the valleys were all thatched huts, sometimes just one or two families, sometimes ten or twenty. Settlements on high ground were called "Zhai," those on flat land "Wei," and some "Lou." These settlements were located either on precipitous mountain tops or at strategic passes, accessible only by a single narrow path, defendable by one man – all extremely perilous locations. East of Baixi, there were many ancient pine trees along the road. Burned by firewood gatherers, their resin flowed out and often solidified into shapes resembling lingzhi mushrooms, some as large as plates and brilliantly white. Some felled pines lay across the path, their bark scattered, often obstructing the stone steps. Upon reaching the Lintian area, larger villages gradually appeared, arranged like chess pieces at varying heights. Rice paddies were cultivated following the mountain contours, half cultivated and half fallow/wild, mostly consisting of narrow, long, small plots; there were no large square fields of several dozen mu. Within ten li, we crossed the Qiuxiang River twice, and upon reaching the Tietan Ferry, we arrived at the county seat. The county seat is situated in slightly lower terrain, surrounded by red "Zhang" peaks. What are "Zhang"? They are the most prominent, tallest peaks among the mountains, standing like screens across the sky, hence the name "Zhang." The most famous ones, like Yangjiao (Goat Horn), Yanwei (Swallow Tail), and Jiguan (Cockscomb) Zhang, are named after their shapes. Baiye (White Leaf), Lianzi (Curtain Purple), and Wuqin (Black Bird) Zhang are named after their colors. Jigong (Rooster), Lumu (Doe), Huangzhang (Yellow Muntjac), and Lu Niuba (Cow-like Deer/Doe?) Zhang are named after birds and beasts. Baishu (Cypress), Baixing (Flourishing Cypress), Qimu (Lacquerwood), Huangcao (Yellow Grass), and Huanghua (Yellow Flower) Zhang are named after plants. Others like Tianzi (Heaven Character), Baodong (Treasure Cave), Miaomei (Eyebrow Painting), Shanglai (Upper Rapids), Baoshan (Treasure Mountain), Qibi (Leaning Wall), Chui Luo (Blowing Conch), Maotan (Thatch Shoal) Zhang, etc., fall into roughly three categories. Each name is beautiful, and their forms are also unique and elegant. Jiguan Zhang stands directly in front of the Ziyin Academy where I resided. It consists of eight or nine peaks of varying sizes, displaying changing hues of crimson and purple, with mist and greenery seeming to flow, making it particularly lovely. Yangjiao Zhang, to the south, faces the county Confucian temple/school. A peak beside it, directly aligned with the county government office, is named Wenbi (Scholar's Brush) Peak. It is sharp but not very high. If the scholars of the county could each carry a jar or pot of earth to pile on top, it could instantly be raised several zhang, making its posture even more steep and imposing. The county has many waterways, all flowing out from the various Zhang peaks, twisting and turning hundreds of times. The larger ones are called rivers (Jiang), of which there are five, serving as the main arteries (warp). The smaller ones are called streams (Xi), gullies (Keng), and brooks (Jian), numbering over a hundred, serving as the tributaries (weft). Waters rush from all directions, sometimes dividing, sometimes merging. The Qiuxiang River is the longest; for over two hundred li downstream from Huodaijing, it is called the Qiuxiang River. It collects thirty-eight smaller tributaries, flowing from south to north, then west, then south again, and finally west into the Dongjiang River. If the section from Tietan Ferry south of the city down to Yaxi could be slightly dredged, clearing the obstructing silt and blasting the obstructing rocks, making the three hundred and sixty rapids and shoals navigable without obstruction, allowing small boats (like "three-mat" and "four-mat" boats) to pass, then grain merchants would converge here from all directions, and grain prices would rise. High grain prices would encourage more people to cultivate she fields (slash-and-burn hillside plots), making fuller use of the land's potential. Although (paddy) fields are scarce, she fields are numerous. If almost every farmer cultivates she fields, then no mountain would be without villages. Thus, the prosperity of Yong'an County could be expected in the near future.
文化解读/分析
此条目是屈大均对清初永安县(今广东紫金县)地理、风物、民情和经济潜力的详细记述,具有多方面的文化和历史价值。
- 纪行文学与地理勘察: 本文带有鲜明的纪行色彩,详细记录了从归善到永安的艰辛旅程(“涉溪”、“上岭”、“蛇盘”、“郁燠蒸人”),以及沿途的地理景观(山川、植被、道路)和聚落形态。这种细致入微的观察和描述,为研究清初粤东山区的交通状况、自然环境和人居分布提供了宝贵的资料。
- “嶂”地貌与地方特色: 屈大均着重描述了永安县最具特色的“嶂”地貌(“丹嶂宫之”),并详细列举了众多山嶂的名称及其命名依据(形态、颜色、动植物等)。这不仅展现了当地独特的丹霞地貌景观,也反映了地方民众对自然环境的认知方式和丰富的想象力,这些富有地方色彩的命名本身就是一种文化遗产。
- 风水观念的体现: 对县城周围山嶂环抱形势的描述,特别是对学宫和县衙正对的“文笔峰”的关注,以及提出人工增高山峰以助文运的建议(“人以一罂一瓮实土覆其上,立可培高数丈”),都清晰地反映了风水(堪舆)观念在当时社会生活和地方治理中的影响。山川形势被认为与地方文运、官运乃至整体福祉息息相关。
- 聚落形态与社会环境: 文中描述的村落多为建于险要之处的“砦”、“围”、“楼”(“或在山绝巅,或在隘口,一径微通,一夫可守”),且规模较小、分散。这暗示了当时粤东山区可能存在的社会治安问题(如匪患、械斗)或防御需求,居民点选址优先考虑安全因素。
- 农业结构与经济潜力: 记述了当地以山地农业为主的特点,水田稀少狭小,而“畲”田(刀耕火种的山地旱田)是主要的耕作方式(“无农不畲”)。屈大均敏锐地观察到交通对经济发展的制约,并提出了具体的解决方案——疏浚秋乡江,改善航运条件。他预见到交通改善将促进贸易(“谷贾四方辐辏”)、提高粮价、激励垦殖(“种畲者多”)、促进人口聚集(“无山不为村落”),最终实现县域富庶。这体现了他作为学者的经世致用思想和对地方发展的关切。
- 自然观察与物产记录: 对古松“膏液迸注”、“凝结成芝菌”的描述,虽然可能是对松脂凝结物的误判,但也反映了作者对自然现象的好奇与记录。
关键词
永安县, 紫金县, 广东, 清代, 屈大均, 广东新语, 地理, 纪行, 东江, 秋乡江, 嶂, 丹霞地貌, 山峰命名, 风水, 堪舆, 文笔峰, 聚落形态, 砦, 围, 楼, 农业, 畲田, 刀耕火种, 交通, 航运, 河流疏浚, 经济发展, 地方治理